Bolt-on horsepower. Improving a Golf's output by 30 percent.
By Lance Plahn AUSTRALIA.
Over the past 12 months or so there has been a steady increase in demand for Golf parts and info on performance related items. This story will examine the effects of alleged bolt-on performance giving items to an early golf, with most emphasis placed on power and torque gains, measured with the aid of a chassis dynamometer. As power increases were the objective, the engine was tuned for this factor, with fuel economy not being a major concern.Gordon Fischer of North Rocky Mechanical donated parts and equipment. Gordon's 1976 4-door Golf was used for all testing, which had received an engine overhaul some 40,000km previously, necessitating boring to 1st oversize, (now 80mm bore) but still reasonably fresh and in standard form.
Measuring engine performance was done with the aid of a Vane 4000 Chassis Dyno, indicating values in brake horsepower (bhp) and foot/pounds (lb-ft) torque measured at the road wheels. To ensure the engines vitals were functioning correctly, an Allen Scope and Thurgood 3 Gas Analyser were also used. All dyno tests were conducted in 4th gear (top) starting at 1000 RPM, concluding at 5500 RPM, with all the bhp and torque values recorded at 500 RPM intervals. The same vehicle, test equipment and operator were used for the full series of tests, only weather conditions varied with these being recorded.
ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR
This adjustable cam gear enables advancing or retarding of the cam timing by dialling the cam to move the torque peak lower in the rev-range. Brake horsepower stays much the same. The gear has a zero setting being standard specification, and enables up to 4° advance or retard at 1° intervals.
As in the case of the test Golf, the cylinder head has been surfaced bringing the camshaft and crankshaft centre lines closer, retarding the cam timing and causing the engine to be dead off the mark, but with improved top-end performance. Advancing the cam timing provides a better response and drivability around town. The cam timing remained on 4° advance for the remaining tests.
S&S EXTRACTORS
Carburetion and cam are not the first choice for performance gains as the standard exhaust limits their potential gains. It is debatable which to replace first - the manifold with extractors, or the exhaust with a freeflow type.
Four-into-one extractors were fitted first, showing an increased BHP on the dyno, along with an on-road improvement. The extractors were easy to fit coupling to the remaining standard exhaust system without a problem. But a few warnings or considerations: The extractors are positioned very close to the steering column boot, which may cause an unnecessary repair expense; and check all engine mounts for condition, especially the front engine mount (timing cover end) as it is prone to sagging and oil damage, and ensure they are adjusted correctly. If replacement is required, consider upgraded units.
With the extractors now fitted, some of the vehicle's engine support has now been removed, placing more stress on the front engine mount (torque reaction mount). To obtain a good life from the extractors (being of thin wall construction) an upgraded front mount is necessary to prevent cracking from flexing. A urethane mount is available for this task.
The flexible coupling at the end of the extractors may prove to be too restrictive if used on a large displacement engine, requiring a larger, less restricting coupling. This was one of the last changes made on the Golf, using a flexible pipe from a late model Mitsubishi Magna, improving engine response from 3500 to 6000 RPM.
FREE -FLOW EXHAUST SYSTEM
Discussing our project with an exhaust shop, we were advised to use a 1 7/8 inch inside diameter exhaust system with a 2-inch muffler, chosen due to the inside diameter of the muffler pipe being approximately 1 7/8 inch due to the internal flute design.
This system gave a noticeable onroad improvement; however with a slight increase in exhaust noise and more of a crackly tone. To overcome this a resonator could be fitted in the front part of the system.
CAM SPLASH GUARD
One problem experienced on the dyno was a miss-firing at around 5500-RPM, despite having received a good tune which included new spark plugs and genuine fuel pump. It was found that due to the nature and time taken to conduct a dyno test, oil in the blow-by was entering the carby through the crankcase breather system. A cam splash guard was fitted, which then resolved this problem.
Volkswagen introduced this cam splashguard in 1985 on the GTI available under part number 026103547. Made of black plastic, it's placed on top of the camshaft bearing blocks. This device cuts down on oil splash created by the cam, in turn reducing tappet cover and oil filter cap leaks. Golf diesel owners experiencing oil saturation of the air filter have used this splashguard and report an increase in air filter service intervals after installation.
FORD PIERBURG CARBY KIT
This complete carby kit was purchased from America, consisting of a Magnum Flow Inlet Manifold manufactured in the USA, and a progressive-design Ford Pierburg carby made in West Germany. Primary venturi is 22mm, secondary 23mm with a 27.5mm throttle butterfly. The carby was mounted to the manifold via a Bakelite adapter block, which distorts when torqued thereby creating vacuum leaks. An alloy adapter block overcame this problem. The air cleaner supplied gave ample clearance of the body, using a K&N element.
All components required for installation were in the kit. Performance, driveability and economy were all better than a standard carby, with the same modifications (cam 4o advanced, extractor and 1 7/8 inch system, and cam splashguards). After initial testing, rejetting was undertaken on the dyno as it proved to be a little lean from 3500 RPM on, resulting in taking the primary main from 105 to 115, all providing a little more power with a small penalty in fuel consumption.
WEBER DGV
A Weber DGV was next in this series of tests. As the Magnum Flow manifold was already fitted, it was just a matter of removing the Pierburg then fitting the DGV. A Ram-flow air cleaner was used, which continually contacts the firewall. This carby came with a 26mm primary venturi and 27mm secondary venturi.
Fitted straight from the box, it produced the best BHP, with good economy, but driveability being very poor plus it has an annoying flat spot before it was rejetted. The DGV lends itself to fine tuning as Weber produce a good range of main, idle, air correction jets plus emulsion tubes. Rejetting provided driveability equal or better than a standard carby; however, a little power was lost, but still providing better performance over the Pierburg and without a doubt, the standard carby.
Before fitting the Magnum Flow manifold it was placed on a flow bench along with a VW Passat TS manifold. The Magnum Flow was better down low and although the two differ in design they both have a comparable top-end flow rate.
Remember when fitting a replacement carburettor, to obtain best results rejetting is required, with the use of a gas analyser being essential. The testing suggests the DGV prefers a C.O. reading of around 4 percent on full load before good things start to happen.
CAMSHAFTS
As a displacement was not greatly increased and the cylinder head deprived of any trick work, it was decided to use a mild cam, a TL-10 GTI grind, with 226o duration at 0.050 was chosen for a broad torque range. All the work is still with the cam timing advanced 4o.
This cam gave a 3-bhp increase at 4500 RPM with no loss of drivability throughout the rev range. Below 3500 RPM, there is very little gain, but after this point the powerband comes alive. Remember, high performance cams, due to their design usually slow the intake air speed down, requiring rejetting of the carburettor.
HEAVY-DUTY VALVE SPRINGS
When installing a cam with more lift or duration than standard, it is advised to upgrade the valve springs. There are just as many thoughts and theories on this subject as there are valve springs available. VW produced two types of valve springs, standard and a heavier spring for the GTI. Of course the aftermarket also offers a number of options. These springs are tested at installed height being 28mm. The standard springs exerts 115 pounds seat pressure, 135 for the GTI springs, with a whopping 175 pounds from the aftermarket springs as fitted to the test Golf.
With these heavy-duty valve springs fitted, a difference was immediately noticed on start up as the exhaust tone had changed. A subsequent test drive revealed a decrease in power with the engine slow to rev out, much like if the ignition had been severely retarded. Dyno tests showed a loss of 2 bhp, remembering this is measured at the wheels. This is not to advocate the non-fitting of heavy-duty valve springs, merely to draw attention to possible effects.
Many reconditioners of engines other than VWs recommend springs that are just adequate for the job or about the same installed spring tension as factory specs. Too heavy a spring robs valuable power with a further loss of throttle response.
DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCE CURVE
Right from the start of testing it was obvious there was power to be gained or lost through ignition timing. When the initial ignition was set at 11o it gave good bhp results to 3000 RPM, but a 3-bhp loss at 3500 RPM and beyond. By retarding initial timing to 0o it had the opposite effect, with poor bottom end bhp numbers but improved top end figures.
Recalibrating the distributor was needed to obtain maximum bhp through the rev range. To do this an ideal advance curve was plotted on the dyno by adjusting the timing to maximum bhp at various intervals through the rev range. Then with the aid of a distributor calibrating machine and much time consuming work to the dizzy, the advance curve was within the parameters of VW specs.
A quick look at the plotted advance curve will show this ideal curve impossible to obtain with the old (points) ignition system. It's for this reason most manufacturers have now switched to a computer controlled ignition system which can deliver any preferred advance at any RPM, all to the advantage of a more powerful, smoother, fuel-efficient motor.
AIR CLEANER
This too is another area deserving attention, as power gains can be easily lost. We have all noticed our engines seem to run more smoothly with more power on a cold night. This is because atmospheric conditions do affect engine power, with the most predominant being ambient air temperature.
There is a mathematical formula used here, with 16.6oC used as a reference point, then for each variation of 10o, the power output will change by about 1.20 KW. This is to say if an example engine produces 100 KW at 15oC, on a winter's day with a reduction of ambient air temperature to 10oC power output will increase to 101.2 KW. Then to the other extreme, with 40oC heat, power output will drop to 97 KW. If we dial in a few more variables such as a hot summer’s day, and the underbonnet temperature - thanks to the exhaust manifold and radiator - has risen to 85oC. The power output would drop to 91.5 KW!
When fitting a non-standard carby to a Golf, consideration should be given to the air filter. The standard filter already has a cold air pick up and a hot air pick up for cool conditions to help with smooth running; therefore, it would be appropriate to take advantage of this set up already in place by manufacturing an air box to fit the carburettor, utilising the existing flexible hose between the two.
For best results, the air cleaner base plate should be level with the top of the carby opening with a raised radiused entry. This smoother air flow entry into the carby results in a cheap form of a velocity stack. Most sports air cleaners have their base plate sitting lower than the entry point resulting in a power loss.
To embark on such a testing program, recording details takes considerable resources, a task involving several participants. Many thanks to the following people who have greatly assisted: Gordon Fischer of North Rocky Mechanical for the test Golf and performance parts, C.Q. Automatics for unlimited use of their dynamometer and Remo Menolotto of the Rockhampton TAFE College for overseeing the project.
FINAL SPECIFICATION SHEET
BORE
80mm (0.5mm oversize)
EXHAUST
S&S extractors with flexible joint replaced with late-model Mitsubishi joint, 17/8
inch exhaust system, two inch Walker muffler.
INTAKE
Ram flow air cleaner
Magnum Flow intake manifold
Weber DGV carburettor
Venturis primary 26 mm secondary 27 mm
Idle jet 65 50
Main jet 145 145
Air cor jet 160 160
EMISSION |
RPM | C.O. | H.C. |
| 1500 | 2.85 | 90 | |
| 2500 | 5.85 | 130 | |
| 3500 | 5.3 | 90 | |
| 4500 | 4.75 | 70 | |
| 5500 | 4.4 | 80 |
CAM & VALVES
Cam splash guard
Cam spec TL10 (GTI grind)
Cam timing 4o advance
Valve springs standard
Valves standard
DISTRIBUTOR
Initial advance 11o BTDC
FUEL CONSUMPTION
300km per tank, 23 mpg (hard driving)
SUMMARY OF DYNO TESTING
| RPM | Standard | Final Specification | ||
| RPM | BHP | TORQUE | BHP | TORQUE |
| 1000 | 4 | 250 | 6 | 350 |
| 1500 | 8 | 300 | 12 | 375 |
| 2000 | 14 | 360 | 17 | 390 |
| 2500 | 22 | 400 | 23 | 400 |
| 3000 | 28 | 380 | 31 | 425 |
| 3500 | 32 | 380 | 36 | 435 |
| 4000 | 34 | 360 | 40 | 420 |
| 4500 | 36 | 350 | 45 | 410 |
| 5000 | 35 | 330 | 45 | 390 |
| 5500 | 280 | 43 | 350 | |
NOTE
I hope this is of some use, the vehicle did a lot of miles on the dyno, road and motor
sport testing, resulting in the engine requiring an overhaul soon after.
UPDATE
The above set up worked well, the vehicle being used for business and family transport, at week-ends the golf was used in various motor sport events: - motorkhana's, kanacross's and rally sprints. It was in the motor sport activities that some problems occurred. The air cleaner was inadequate and kept falling off in events. The exhaust gave continuous trouble at the flexible joint. These troubles were not detected under hard street driving. The exhaust was changed for a new complete system made in Italy, called Ansa. This system gave an increase in performance and no troubles in motor sport. The only trouble was the system was close to the hand brake cables, causing the plastic lining to melt. This was fixed by making and fitting some heat shields. The other problem experienced in motor sport and to a degree on the street was traction and engine mounting. The urethane front mount was already fitted and was an improvement for the better. No one had upgraded engine mounts, but could import then at a price. A simple and cheap cure was found four urethane washers were turned up in a lathe, with two being fitted to each of the round mounts. That is the mount at the front of the motor, plus one on the gearbox. These washers were secured by the bolt through the centre of the mount and went between the mount and housing, reducing the movement of the mount in the same direction as the bolt. If all the play is removed it is like having solid mounts, resulting in engine vibration through the vehicle.
The golf in the above form was competitive in the motor sports events, and was continually improved. To-day (1997) as Gordon travels around the Central Queensland events, the golf is feared, as driver and vehicle combination are very hard to beat, now winning most events with times well ahead of second place getters. Mistakes and breakages by driver and vehicle being the other competitors only hope of winning against the Golf.
Suspension
Uprated front and rear springs, Bilstein shocks on all corners, Heavy duty front (18mm) and rear (25mm) sway bars, Top and bottom front suspension braces.
Gearbox
Close ratio five speed with limited slip diff, GTI 210 mm clutch
Brakes
GTI front and rear discs and a modified GTI brake booster.
Engine
The above engine with a few changes
Bore 80.5 Stroke 90.0mm Displacement 1842
Head 1800cc with TL10 cam and 9.0 to 1 compression ratio
Twin 40 DRLA Delortos with 32mm venturies
This time, we've got something for Kombi owners who like to get their own hands dirty. We all know Kombis are incredibly practical vehicles that offer huge payloads with plenty of economy. And if that's the case, doesn't it make sense to make them go as far as possible on as little as possible?
Working on that theory, one of the areas you can improve and squeeze plenty more miles from is the front end. Increasing the life of front ball joints is as simple as fitting a grease nipple, but you need to have a plan. And believe it or not, regular greasing of a half-worn ball joints will make it last as long as a brand new replacement unit. Not bad, right?
Fitting grease nipples to ball joints doesn't take long, but you will need to fashion yourself a special service tool for part of the job.
Start with the top ball joint - all you need to do is drill a 7/32-inch hole into the joint and fit a 6mm self-tapping nipple. It really is as easy as that. The bottom ball joint is a bit trickier because it's hard to get the drill to it. The best advice is to weld a 15cm length of 1/4-inch rod to the end of the drill bit so you've got a super long bit. No, it won't be straight, but if you take things slowly (a variable speed drill is best) you'll find the job can be done and you won't harm the bit.
Don't worry about metal shavings falling into the hole - all you need do is blow them out before screwing in the nipple. An even better idea is to add some grease to the drill bit so the shavings will stick to that and not fall in.
Once you've done that, you've got a completely serviceable ball joint that will outlast just about any other type. There are of course, some things to keep in mind. The most important of these is not to over-grease the ball joint. Over-greasing will result in the rubber boot bursting and that defeats the whole purpose because a broken boot will allow dirt and mud into the joint and wear it out very quickly.
Our suggestion is a thimble-full of grease every six months or so, depending on the mileage the vehicle does.
Now, on some Volkswagens, this particular modification will be even easier because some VW's already have a hole tapped into the ball joints. The cars we're talking about here are 1500 Beetles, 1968-69 Kombis and 1968-69 Type 3s. These will have a small plastic bung in the ball joint and all you need to do is remove this and screw your 6mm nipple in.
Of course, if they're not the original ball joints, it won't be so easy because later model and replacement joints don't have the threaded hole. In that case, just go back to the start of this page and follow the sequence.
TopBy Lance Plahn
As we know Volkswagen transversely mounted the engine and transmission in the Golf. Installation of the engine in this manner needs extra attention due to the engine motion and stress placed on the exhaust system. The standard mounting is fine and you wouldn't have an inkling of a potential problem if you drive sedately. Though if you intend fitting extractors or driving hard, you will need to address this mount problem. Most VW shops have released an Australian made replacement polyurethane front engine mount, which is covered by the manufactures 2 year or 40,000Km warranty. This is ideal for reducing exhaust flex, especially when fitting tube extractors.
TopBy Lance Plahn, AUSTRALIA
As we are all aware, the VW Golf had either a diesel or petrol engine option. There are a number of differences between these engines, the diesel being a compression ignition motor and the petrol a spark ignition engine. However, both engines do operate on the four-stroke cycle.
On diesel engines, there is no throttle valve in the intake system, the maximum intake is allowed at all times. The throttle is connected to an elaborate mechanical fuel pump which, in turn, is driven by a notched timing belt.
With a compression ratio of around 23:1, the air temperature is subsequently forced up to the 900-degrees Celsius mark during the compression cycle: this is above the flashpoint for diesel fuel. A mist of diesel fuel is injected at high pressure, which results in combustion. The engine is shut down by cutting the fuel delivery to the motor.
A vacuum pump to operate the power brakes is now fitted where the distributor would sit on a petrol engine. A vent hose is connected between the vacuum pump and engine block with the aid of a flange. A petrol engine would have a fuel pump instead of this flange.
The Australian Design Rules have for some time now prohibited the emission of crankcase ventilation fumes into the atmosphere. VW therefore fitted a moulded rubber hose between the tappet cover and alloy intake air box. As it turns out, this is a design fault affecting diesel Golfs worldwide. It allows engine oil (another source of combustible fuel) to be drawn from the cam box/top-end into the air intake system, via the crankcase ventilation breather pipe. Results can include: (1) saturation of the air filter element with oil, (2) emission of excessive blue smoke from the exhaust at speed, (3) the engine receiving a frightening boost of uncontrollable power and speed.
In late 1979, VW Australia released service information relating to this problem to dealers. It advised that a modified breather pipe kit was available under Part No. 068198999F and could be claimed under warranty. This kit compromised a breather pipe (with three outlets) and a flange gasket.
To fit this modification to the crankcase ventilation system, first remove: (1) breather hose from tappet cover to air box, (2) vent hose from vacuum hose to engine block at block flange, (3) flange and gasket from engine block.
Now install parts supplied in modification kit: (1) fit flange to engine block with new gasket provided, (2) refit vent hose from vacuum pump to flange (this hose may now need to be shortened to prevent kinking), (3) fit modification breather pipe at tappet cover, air box and the new third outlet to additional outlet on the engine block flange.
With this modification now in place, some of the problems mentioned earlier should be alleviated. However, it is not a cure for the problems associated with excessive blow-by due to worn rings or bore. From Chassis No. 17AO135200 onwards, VW made modifications within the engine block, thus eliminating the need for this breather modification. The fitting of a cam cover (as VW used in the GTI ) also helps reduce the amount of oil fumes entering the inlet manifold.
By Lance Plahn, AUSTRALIA.
The Golf has now been cruising the roads around Australia for just on a decade and a half, and in that time, has proven to be a popular vehicle with a good resale value. Its only now, after such a lengthy period of time has combined with high mileages, that some problems are starting to surface.
One such problem appearing in recent years is fatiguing and cracking around the firewall hole where the clutch cable is attached. Excessive clutch free-play usually warns of the onset of this condition: however, this should not be confused with clutch cable problems. If the condition is left unattended for long enough, the end result will be a cable that pulls through the firewall when the clutch pedal is depressed. VW owners are not alone with this problem, as some of the mid- '70s domestic sedans suffered the same fate.
In the past, repairing the damage required the fabrication of a piece of sheet-metal to cover the uneven surface around the clutch cable hole, the plate being either welded or screwed in position. Now, under part number 171899020, there is a panel available for the job at a cost of approximately $40.00.
This repair panel measures 110mm by 75mm and is slightly thicker than the original firewall, which makes it more than adequate to repair the most severely damaged firewall. The kit includes five aluminium rivets, used to attach the panel to the firewall and even the most talented craftsman would be envious of the precise fits of this repair panel.
Fitting the panel takes less than half an hour and is easy work for a novice mechanic. Firstly, disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch pedal and remove the cable from the firewall. Now place the repair panel in position - you will find that it practically locates itself. Drill a five thirty-seconds of an inch hole through the panel and firewall. Place the rivet in the hole and then tap the rivet centre pin in with a hammer to expand the rivet. Repeat this procedure with the remaining rivets. Refit the clutch cable to the firewall and clutch cable to the firewall and clutch pedal and then readjust the clutch free-play. It is not necessary to remove the carburettor to perform this task, but it would make the job a little easier.
Well! The big question on most pre -86 VW owners breath now days is "What do I have to do to enable my vehicle to run on unleaded?"
Based on information supplied by the Federal Chamber of Automotive Industries and the Australian Institute of Petroleum Ltd., a list of pre -1986 vehicles which can run on unleaded petrol was compiled. The following Audis and VWs are on that list.
MAKE |
ENGINE PRODUCTION DATES |
| Audi 80 Fox | 1977 on |
| Audi 100 5E | 1978 & 1979 |
| VW Kombi | CV 1978 & 1979 |
| VW Microbus | CV 1982 & 1983 |
| VW Transporter | DH (water-cooled) |
| VW Passat | 1977 on |
| VW Golf | 1977 on |
However I would hasten to point out this list would only refer to vehicles with engines in original condition, eg. genuine valves and seats with stock compression ratio.
So what about those many VWs not on this safe list? Let's first look at why the lead is in the fuel in order to understand the problem. It is there for two basic reasons, No.1 - octane enhancer and No.2 - upper cylinder head lubricant.
Octane Enhancer:- a fuel's octane rating is a measure of it's anti-knock properties. If the octane is too low for an engine's compression ratio, the engine can "ping" (detonation) causing internal engine damage. This condition generally occurs at full throttle. Super Petrol (red in colour) has an octane rating of 97 (minimum), unleaded petrol (purple in colour) has an octane rating of 95 (minimum), it should also be noted the level of lead in super (Qld) is now 0.4 grams/litre down from a maximum of 0.84 a few years ago.
To overcome the above situation in order to run successfully on U.L.P. you may have to do one or two things to prevent ping. Firstly - adjust the timing to within a couple of degrees of specifications or recalibrate the distributor advance curve, eg. Bosch 009 distributors only have one advance spring (light) but have provision for the second (heavier) spring. Secondly lower the compression ratio to specifications or a little lower. My experience reveals that most engines have by now had a number of overhauls, ultimately increasing the compression ratio. To lower the compression you can use decompression shims either under the cylinder barrels or between cylinder and head (air-cooled motors).
Upper cylinder lubricant:- the lead acts as a lubricant between valves and seat faces to prevent premature corrosion, eg. burnt valves. As I understand it from a lecture given by a Petroleum Chemist at a Trade Night, there is no commercial product on the market to elevate this problem. However not to be confused with the regular use of an upper cylinder lubricant (eg. Redex) which does improve the life of top end components, eg. valve stems, guides and top ring. The solution to this situation is simple (though may not be cheap), replace valves and seats with items being compatible or suited to U.L.P. usage.
Research shows the majority of vehicles doing the high mileage are now requiring U.L.P. If current trends exist U.L.P. will take over from super as Australians most popular petrol mid next year. There are varying industry predictions placing super petrol production to cease between 2002 and 2006. It should be pointed out lead was removed primarily (in 1986) to enable vehicles to be fitted with a catalytic converter (cat) into the exhaust system to further reduce harmful exhaust emission. Leaded fuel merely "poisons" the cat rendering it ineffective after only a couple of tanks. Hence running your pre -86 vehicle on U.L.P. will not be as environmentally-friendly as a post 86 vehicle fitted with a cat (compulsory) which are designed and built to meet to-days tough pollution laws. By converting your VW to U.L.P. usage will enable you to keep driving your early VW into the twenty first century and be a little kinder on the environment. If however your VW will not last that long or is not ready for an engine overhaul including converting to U.L.P. on each alternate fill with super providing there is not a ping problem.
By using premium unleaded petrol in say a post 86 Kombi will offer little or no gain especially for the extra cost. On the other hand this fuel offers improved performance and fuel economy in the Golf GTI recently sold on Australia. Thus making it the desired fuel for these vehicles and other high performance U.L.P. vehicles.
By Lance Plahn
For some reason best known to the people who designed them, Passats and Golfs tend to rust out their mufflers rather quickly. To improve the life of these units, you can add a grease nipple.
The idea is to keep a coat of rust inhibiting grease inside the muffler. To accomplish this, you need to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe, upstream from the muffler. That way, the grease, once injected, will be blown back into the muffler by the flow of the exhaust gas.
One method is to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe, then braze a 6mm nut over the hole. Fit a metric grease nipple (6x1mm thread) and grease. Or just drill a hole and fit a self tapping grease nipple. Greasing regularly (once every few months) is enough to double and in some cases treble muffler life.
That's the inside taken care off, now the out side, simply just paint it with Galvit E90, a cold galvanising primer. It will adhere very well on mufflers, may flake on engine pipes. Using the above method, I obtained 11 year service from a two litre Kombi muffler.
I think by now most VW owners have seen the engine that powers their VW put to another use. Popular in Industry as Air Compressors or driving Generators, Welders, Water Pumps, Drilling Rigs and even powering Aeroplanes and boats.
These motors are called Industrial Motors or 126A Motor. One such motor is used as and Air Compressor. The motor being basically a standard 1600cc single port motor, with No. 3 and 4 head removed and an expensive Compressor Head fitted. There is now no need for the push rods and tubes on this side, so a bung is fitted to the 4 push rod holes in the crankcase, they also retain the cam-followers.
The engine now runs on two cylinders ( No. 1 and2.) and 3 and 4 act as the compressor. After exciting the head, the compressed air goes through a condenser to cool the air, then to a storage tank. The tank is fitted with a valve, so when the pressure in the tank exceeds safety limits, it blows off, but when the pressure is too low it signals the governor which increases the engine revs.
The governor is driven by a toothed belt, taking its drive from the crank. The governor then controls throttle operations, being idle when pressure is built up in the tank or continuos revs when the air is being used. The Solex Carby is only small and very simple.
Compressor Units usually have a electrical starting system, same as in cars, battery, starter motor and charging system. All this is fitted into a portable frame or made into a trailer. These compressors can run two jack hammers at a time. Due to the nature of use, these motors enjoy a good life and do not have the same problem as they do vehicles, eg., burning valves, cracking heads, leaking heads and pounding out crankcases.
Another use for the 126A motor is to drive a Generator. The Australian Army have a number of these units nicknamed ''Gen Sets"". They use them in the field and at Exercise to power refrigerators and lights. Generator being 10 KV unit.
Motor and Generator are fitted in a frame and they are very heavy, requiring four men to lift them, and everything is painted green. There is a sound deadening compound applied to the tinware.
These motors have to be handcranked to start, and they take a bit of effort to fire up. But worst of all the crankhandle comes dangerously close to the ground, starting of these units is for men only. Ignition is by magneto to stop the motor there is a kill switch.
The Army tells me, these motors can run up to 40hours straight in the field stopping only to refuel. At 40 hours they are serviced.
by Lance Plahn
It is common knowledge that during the early 60's to late 60's, VW produced a healthy number of beetles fitted with a 1200 40 H.P. engine. As testimony to VWs quality and superb engineering, many of these vehicles are still on the road today, some 25 plus years on. However due to natural causes and age there is a slowly increasing number not making it back onto the road each year, although there are still plenty on the road. The 40 H.P. motor has proven to be an efficient and reliable motor for the most part, however early in the piece there were a few teething problems with camshaft troubles and rocker shaft stud breakage.
Over the years usage dictated you may be required to overhaul the engine. As part of this overhaul one quest has been to obtain more power, which is achievable. Now days many just simply replace their fired 1200 in favour of a 1600, but due to the economic climate many owners cannot afford this luxury. There are a number of modifications which can be applied to the 40 H.P. motor during overhaul in order to gain a little more power without sacrifice of engine reliability. Options listed are based on a full rebuild using standard components from later model engines, though high performance items are available at an extra cost. Some modifications can be applied when performing a top end overhaul.
CRANKCASES: Due to age and high mileage it may be difficult to find a good used case to start with. VW ran the cam directly in case bores which created some problems. Naturally if the cam bore is worn there is a loss of oil pressure, causing further troubles. This problem was addressed by the fitting of cam bearings, for best results look for a case which has been modified to accept cam bearings. It is possible to use 1300/1500 and 1600 crankcases with the main difference being the barrel spigot bore size in the crankcase. The 1600 being larger than the 1200. VW used 1600, 3 point mount case on their 1200 Exchange Engines, overcoming this problem by manufacturing a larger 1200 barrel spigot. You may be lucky to find some of these barrels.
Another problem which surfaces at times is that the crankcases develop a crack at the lower end of No.3 cylinder behind the flywheel. This then gives an annoying oil leak, often blamed on the crank seal. To prevent this occurrence in high performance engines, some builders elect to weld this area. But this is expensive and can create further troubles. An alternative preventative measure to welding used by many Australian engine rebuilders for a number of years, is to fill this area with Devcon F, being an 80% aluminium putty which uses a hardening agent. I have had an engine develop this crack to which Devcon F was applied allowing the engine to then run its full remaining life without replacement of cases. Of course it depends on the severity of this crack. It is a good idea to address this problem before it occurs.
When assembling cases it is advisable to use nylon lock nuts (12x1.5) on the six main case studs. These nuts have a 19mm head as opposed to the standard 17mm. This enables a larger clamp area along with the resistance to the tendency of the nuts working loose, thus allowing the case fret.
CRANK: Debur around the oil flow an abrasive wheel on an electric drill. Mask the journals to prevent damage. Then clean holes using a rifle brush and cleaner. Carby spray is good for this job.
FLYWHEEL: The stock 1200 flywheel uses a 180mm clutch and weighs approximately 22 pounds. Where as a flywheel from a 6 volt Type Three and a 1500 cc six volt Kombi accepts a 200mm clutch and weighs approximately 18 lbs and are interchangeable. The advantages gained are a lighter flywheel which improves engine response and ability to accept a larger clutch, to handle the extra power.
By now many owners have converted their electrical system over to 12 volts, retaining the 6 volt starter and flywheel. One problem experienced with converting this way is the starter tends to damage the teeth on the flywheel when engaging thus requiring periodical replacement of the flywheel. You may consider using a 12 volt flywheel either 180 or 200 mm clutch. It should be noted the 6 volt crank and flywheel use a paper or steel shim between the two where as the 12 volt crank (cross drilled) and flywheel use an 'O' ring in the flywheel. The 6 and 12 volt crank shims are also different in size. If miss matched, this may develop an oil leak, often mistaken for crank case leak. Some VW exchange engines utilised a 1200 cross leak, often mistaken for crank case leak. Some VW exchange engines utilised a 1200 cross drilled crank requiring an 'O' ring seal type flywheel all though being 6 volt with 180 clutch. The six volt flywheel has 109 teeth and the flywheel although being 6 volt with 180 clutch. The 6 volt flywheel has 109 teeth and the 12 volt 130 teeth. Remembering if you use a 12 volt flywheel and 40 H.P. gearbox you will have to grind the gearbox bell housing to accept the 12 volt flywheel and use a conversion starter bush.
The stock 1200 gland nut is tapered behind the bearing and tends to break on or before flywheel tension is obtained. Where as the replacement nut along with later model nuts are parallel behind the bearing and don't break as often.
VALVE TRAIN: Using a cam from a 1300/1500 or 1600 cc engine will give you a small increase in valve lift and longer duration over the standard 1200 cam, or if your budget permits you may consider a cam with more duration, say 15-55.Cam followers from the 1300/1500 and 1600 cc engines have a thicker head than the 1200 and fit into the 1200 cases. However check clearance between follower head and crankcases at maximum cam lift while cases are apart.
Stock 1200 push rods are just adequate for the task, flexing at high R.P.M., resulting in loss of valuable valve lift. 1300/1500 and 1600cc push rods are thicker and stronger than the 1200, but also longer. To fit requires shortening also allowing you to set up the rocker geometry. To shorten, carefully remove the aluminium tubing around the push rod end to enable removal (a hacksaw blade is helpful with this task), then cut the tube to desired length, place push rod end to tube, while supporting in between two old cam followers using a hammer on the follower to which the end is to be fitted. VW produced two different ratio rocker arms, a 1:1 for 1200 engines and 1.1:1 ratio as used on 1300/1500 and 1600 cc engines. Fitting the later to a 1200 is a bolt on but may alter rocker geometry requiring the push rod length to be altered. Valve Springs fitted to the 1200 are a lighter spring compared to later model motors, with the later spring being identified with a purple strip. This spring is now sold as the replacement for the 1200cc.
Swivel-foot adjusting screws are an item used by many Engine Builders to reduce the pitting of valve stems (where the screw strikes the valve) plus side load and valve guide wear. This type of adjuster was used on early model Mazda 929's, so if you desire this item check out your local wrecking yard.
PISTON AND CYLINDERS: Increasing displacement is the most popular means to gain horsepower. The Hot Tip for the 40 HP motor is the 83mm big bore kit which requires no machining to fit, increasing displacement from 1192cc to 1385cc. This kit provides a good power increase without any sacrifice in engine life, but real power gains can be obtained with this displacement when utilising other modifications, eg. cam, heads, induction, etc.
CYLINDER HEADS: Cast on the head between the rocker post is the part number for that head, 113101351 with a suffix lettering following, eg. A,B,C. These heads were continually being improved hence latter letters. Heads A,B & C (requiring a tappet clearance of 0.008"), suffered from breakage of rocker shaft retaining studs, necessitating a repair modified rocker stud. Head D and E (requiring a tappet clearance of 0.004") were much improved upon, having a square block rocker shaft supports, additional cooling fins, strength and better flow characteristics. These heads being the pick of the 40 HP head options.
Another head option is that from a 1300 engine.
These heads (113101353B) have 33mm inlet and 30 mm exhaust valves as opposed to 31.5mm inlet and 30mm exhaust valves use in 40 HP heads, and incorporate a larger reshaped intake port along with better cooling fin design. This option will provide more horsepower than the 40 HP head set up but requires some modification to enable fitting. 1/. Some head stud lengths require altering, simply by obtaining head studs from a 1300 engine. 2/. The 1300 inlet manifold is larger in diameter and longer in length than the 1200 manifold thus requiring shortening to fit a 40 HP motor, using 1300 heads. To do this first you will have to melt off the heat rise pipe, then shorten the manifold to required length, then reweld, this job will look neater if performed under the generator stand, or you could use a suitable flexible tube over the manifold then clamp it if welding equipment is unavailable. 3/. The rocker geometry may be affected requiring different length push rods, as described earlier in this story.
You may be lucky enough to find good 1300 twin port heads which also will fit, requiring much the same modifications as the single port heads. NOTE 1500 and larger heads have a larger barrel spigot in the head, as well as larger combustion chambers, creating further expensive troubles to fit, where as the 1200 and 1300 heads have the same sized barrel spigots.
INDUCTION: Horsepower gains from the 1200 engine are limited due to the manifold size, there is little gain if any by placing a larger carby on the standard 1200 inlet manifold. A larger manifold as used on 1300 or the 1500/1600 engines will improve flow of the air fuel mixture but necessitating fitting of the 1300 heads, then you can fit any carby from the 1200 to 1600 single port engines or twin carbies from a Type Three by using a 1500's or 1600 single port manifold. This requires reworking the Type 3 linkages and installation of sports air cleaners on tubing to clear the fan housing.
Carburation selection and jetting will depend upon engine modifications made or performance factor you after. The numbers cast on to the side of the VW carby relate to throttle bore size. If rejetting is required the VW jets vary in decimals of 2.5 offering a good range.
DISTRIBUTORS: Like any other moving components they tend to wear out with time and usage, therefore requiring replacement or overhaul. The Bosch 009 is one replacement option, advantages being relatively inexpensive, now offering good life and mechanical advance only making it ideal for use with replacement carburettors. There are disadvantages though, being, slow to advance from idle giving a flat spot or making the engine sluggish off the mark. They have only one advance spring, and in some engines where the compression ratio, piston speed or cam timing is not ideal, this can create a pinging problem requiring the second or heavy spring from an old VW distributor to be fitted.
Another option would be to use a distributor from a 1600 twin port engine having both vacuum and mechanical advance. These distributors also work well, with the vacuum advance giving extra advance required when accelerating, passing and climbing hills. One problem experienced with these distributors is some tend to over advance, resulting in decreased performance in the top end. Check to see if advance delivers more than 30 degrees crank degrees, if so limited the amount of advance movement in the distributor.
If you have an engine that can rev hard you may experience ignition point bounce, restriction high R.P.M. The answer is to use points with more spring tension, in a case where you are using Bosch GB534 points, replace with GB752 which are identical but heavier spring tension, used in Porsche 911 and XU1 Toranas.
COOLING: As we know, the VW engine is both air and oil cooled. Air cooling the external components with oil cooling the moving internal components, with the aid of an oil cooler. The stock cooling system is adequate for intended purpose, but for prolonged engine life, especially if the motor is modified. This starts by ensuring all cooling tinware is there, fitted and sealing correctly.
Over the years as the vehicles require work many parts have been swapped, changed or left off. One part that has found it way onto some 40 HP motors is a 36 HP cooling fan. This fan being identical to the 40 HP unit, except it has every second fan blade missing so It would be wise to ensure you have a 40 HP fan.
The best cooling option would be to use the cooling setup from a twin port engine, requiring fan housing (dog housing Style) chute and duct for oil cooler, rear tinware, oil cooler and stand plus cooling fan which is wider, displacing more air. To fit the oil cooler, crankcase mounting holes and bolt need modifying, including correct oil cooler seal selected . On later model Beetles using this set up, VW installed extra vents in the boot lid to feed the larger capacity fan, so if you use this cooling option it will be advisable to place extra vents in the boot lid. This can be achieved by using a front vent panel from a Kombi, grafting the louvre in the boot lid.
With all this new found power, the brakes and handling may be adequate, thus requiring improvement, but that's another story. Keep it upright on the black stuff!
By Lance Plahn, AUSTRALIA
I know it's an old story, but with the revived enthusiasm in VW's along with greater numbers of cars changing hands, more and more people are asking what a 12 volt conversion involves. What is about to be suggested here is that you may not need to rush into a higher-voltage system to get the results you're after. Let's first look at why you are unhappy with the six volt system.
Without a doubt, hard starting, following by poor lights, are the two main criticisms of elderly six volt VWs. Followed by the fact you can't install a 12volt radio/cassette system. There are other grounds for six volt discontent, but theses are the main ones. So, before we consider going to the considerable expense of a set-up in voltage, let us look at some ways of overcoming these problems.
Voltage drop, for a start, is the worst enemy of the six volt system. A loss of one or two volts can have devastating effects. Making sure all connections, including fuses and earths, are clean, tight, and corrosion-free is a good first step. A CRC aerosol product called Electra Clean is handy for this job.
Next step, presuming you're having starting problems, is to try installing a relay on the starter motor. Ensuring a good earth at the starter motor is also important. You do this by installing a longer bolt on the earths strap at the floor pan end, then running a lead-with an eye at each end to the lower starter bolt.
To get a better charge at the coil, a little attention to the wiring can also help. Power from the battery arrives at the headlight switch via starter motor and voltage regulator, then proceeds to the fuse box back to the ignition switch. Running a wire from the headlight switch to the ignition switch shortens the route and reduces the number of connections, thus improving voltage supply to the coil.
For the lights, relays fitted to high and low beams will improve brightness noticeably, as will higher-wattage halogen globes. It's also important but neglected by many VW owners endeavouring to improve their lights-to ensure both your lenses and reflectors are in the best-possible condition. Re-silvering is not an expensive business and should be considered. Many VW parts suppliers can supply the popular Rossi headlight conversions which accept a seven inch sealed or semi-sealed assemblies.
Where your 12 volt cassette/radio is concerned, you'll find that six-volt-to-12-volt inverters are easily found in places like electronic shops.
There is also another approach: that of fitting an eight volt battery. This was popular some time ago, but is less so today as these batteries are hard to find.
Now, assuming you've tried all this, or at least considered it, but still want to convert to 12 volts. The wiring of your six volt car, should be generally okay when it comes to handling the extra voltage.
Early 12 volt Beetles were fitted with a 30 amp generator, while later models had either a 50 amp alternator with external voltage regulator. Kombis had a 38 amp generator. Any one of these units will fit a six volt VW, but you will need a new generator stand, backing plates, strap, 12 volt pulley and 12 volt regulator-if there's no inbuilt regulator. Most VW shops sell an alternator conversion kit which provides all this along with an 51 amp Motorola alternator containing an inbuilt regulator.
Changing over a generator takes about one hour if you've got a good workshop manual to help you along your way.
What is not really recommended is the fitting of a non-VW alternator. This generally requires a lot of fabrication, making up retaining and adjusting brackets. The foreign alternator is often flimsy and always in need of repair, fouls the boot lid, and often seems to get in the way when working on exhausts, spark plugs, or filling with oil. Another major problem is belt contact on the pulley. If there's not enough of this, there will be some slippage, which can be harmful as the same pulley drives the fan.
Next step is to fit a 12 volt coil, available from manufacturers such as Bosch. After you've installed your generator/alternator and coil, it's time to replace the battery with a 12 volt unit. Most important is the method of retaining the new battery, which will be larger than the original. Loose batteries flopping around under VW rear seats have been known to short out and start fires. Don't even consider tempting fate by leaving the battery loose.
Then, all globes in the car must be replaced by 12 volt globes. Starting from the front of the car, replace all globes for: head and parking lights, indicators, warning and instrumental lights in speedo and fuel gauge, interior light, rear stop/tail/indicator lights, and number plate light. A 12 volt horn, and indicator light relay, must also be fitted. Fuses, and condenser in the distributor will handle the extra voltage and do not require changing. Also, the fuel gauge will continue to work on 12volt, although fitting a 56 Ohm, one watt resistor in the power wire will help it last longer.
Running 12 volts through a six volt wiper motor has its effects too, the wipers operate so fast that the blades hardly touch the screen, causing the excessive wear in the linkages. There's also often a problem switching the wipers off. One options here is to use a 12 volt wiper motor from a later-model car. You'll have to fit the new motor to the old assembly.
The six volt starter will turn twice as fast on 12volts, but the service life won't generally be greatly affected-although it will tend to chew away the ring gear over a period of time. Naturally problems like this ca be overcome by fitting a 12 volt starter. Then you'll need a six-to-12 volt conversion starter bush (fitted in the gearbox bell housing), a 12 volt flywheel which can turn out to be a major job because you'll need to ensure the new one has the same clutch size as your engine, if you want to avoid the cost of a new clutch and pressure plate. 1200/1300 Beetles have a 180mm clutch. 1500/1600 use a 200mm.
Then you'll have to check and adjust the crankshaft end float. Another challenge is that six volt flywheels are different, requiring the 12 volt version to be machined out to fit the crank, and the bell housing high spots require grinding so that the larger diameter flywheel can be fitted. Some VW industrial engines have a 12 volt starter motor with a six volt pinion gear, which is very handy. Part numbers are VW No. 119-911-023, Bosch No. 111-208-006-011.
Another problem that may be encountered is the automatic choke, which will work for a few minutes before the element burns out. A 12 volt choke is not interchangeable. The choices are to forget about the choke, fit a suitable resistor, or replace the carburettor with a later 12 volt version. If the carburettor is fitted with an electronic idler jet this will need changing too, either with a 12 volt version, or non-electronic version.
So that's the fundamentals of a six to 12 volt conversion. Think about the work and expense involved, and think about what you may be able to achieve with a sharpened-up six volt system. You may find you can part with less money and get an equally impressive result. The factory, after all, preserved with six volts for a long time.
By Lance Plahn, AUSTRALIA
Australia for the past decade has become a popular place to visit. Maybe this could be attributed to Hoges " Throw Another Shrimp on the Barbie "advertising campaign. What ever reason, Australia caters for all budgets and tastes, from Y.H.A. to Five Star accommodation, to the big city with bright lights, the Barrier reef to the wild life and outback, and tipping in not a custom here.
Some tourists stay for a few weeks and visit a few sites, but many, mainly younger generation obtain a Visa for three to twelve months stay. This poses the question of how to get around this big country? The main three options could be:-
• Use public transport. All modes are safe and very frequent, travelling to all destinations. The only draw back could be cost for some modes.
• Hire a vehicle, this would depend on your length of stay. Hertz have a number of T4's converted into campers, again cost.
• Buy a vehicle and travel to your desired destination at your leisure, stopping where and when you want.
Buying a vehicle and travelling has and is very popular. If your a VW fanatic, the only choice will be a Volkswagen, with the obvious choice being a Kombi Camper. There is at least one caravan park in every town and a very good sprinkling of road side rest areas, allowing either 24 or 48 hour free camping. Being situated just outside city limits, having toilet facilities and fire places. Some have showers. The trick is to make use of these rest areas for a few days and then stay at a caravan park to catch up on housekeeping duties ie. laundry etc. There is a good supply of second generation Kombi’s with either a 1600 or type four power plants, price ranging from$2,500 to $5,500. Note if the motor fails, the vehicle resale value drops, bottoming out around $300.
As we know VW made other models too, there is a good supply of 60's beetles, due to full local manufacture until 1967. The next year saw the introduction of the 1500 beetle until 1970, with the release of the Super Bug till 1975. The last beetle sold in Australia was in 1976, it had a 1500 body and front end with IRS rear end and a 1600 twinport engine. Other models such as Karmann Ghias, Cabriolets, country buggies (early Australian only version of the 181) split screen kombis, split and ovals are available in limited supply at higher prices
You will notice the emphasis has been on early model VW's, that is due to the fact that vehicles are considered to be expensive here, with Government figures stating " That the average age of vehicles on the roads in Australia is 13.5 years old " Supplies of late model Kombis is good with prices much higher. Though a mark one Golf can be sourced at reasonable prices, only a few mark one Passats remain. Curiously enough VW did import 260, GTI Golfs in 1990, at thirty thousand plus each they took well over 12 months to sell.
The next item on the agenda would be to locate a suitable VW, there are a number of ways to do this but first, consider that you will be entering Australia via an international airport, more than likely Sydney. The problem being, knowing the location and means of transport to potential acquisitions. Means of sourcing suitable VW's could be:-
• Classified section in local newspapers
• Trading Posts ( a classified only newspaper) Ads on Line http://www.adsonline.com.au Also check employment and holidays section
• Contact VW clubs. Some have E-mail and web sites. Maybe also VW business as both often have VW's for sale.
With mode of transport now acquired it's time to hit the road, but first ensure you know the road rules, you will also require a current valid driving license ( country of origin will be ok ) Those who don't know, Australian vehicles are RHD. Also be warned, Police here take a dim view on life threatening offences, issue on the spot infringement notices (tickets - and that's not for the lottery neither) for such offences as:-
• Exceeding the speed limit, offence where speeds exceeding the limit by more than 30Kph are settled in court. Speed limits are well marked. As a guide, 60Kph in built up areas and 100Kph on open road or as marked.
• Not wearing a seat belt. All occupants must wear a seat belt if provided.
• Failing to obey Lawful signs, ie. failing to stop at stop sign, failing to give way at a give way sign, running a red light, and so on.
To assist with planning and budgeting your VW driving holiday, listed below are some prices as a guide, of course prices vary from town to town as well as states.
Travel from Sydney to Townsville (Barrier Reef) per person
Air $300 one way
Coach/Bus $210 one way
Rail $190 one way
Food Items
Bread $2.50
Milk $1.30 per litre
Can of drink $1.30
Car Hire
Medium size $88 per day, unlimited kilometres
Hertz T4 VW camper $1600 for 7 days ( minimum rental period )
Vehicle Expenses
• Unleaded fuel $0.76 per litre
• Super fuel $0.77 per litre
• Twelve months registration $ 430- 500 depending on which state
Accommodation
Motel (double) $50 - 80 per night
On site van $42 supply own linen
Tent site $14 extra $5 for power
You may like to check out the local VW club scene (events, shows, swap meets or club meetings, you will be made welcome) while your in Australia travelling around, again check with the clubs for details. Enjoy your stay.
By Lance Plahn AUSTRALIA
Super Bugs, 1971-75, had a strut front-end and there is much debate over which is the better, strut or torsion bar front-end. When pushed hard or driven over rough roads, the strut towers do flex and, in some cases, can bend inwards. This does have a detrimental effect on the handling. I've dealt with Super Bugs that have had towers bent inwards up to an inch and a half over stock. As a result, you are unable to adjust the camber to factory specifications. The welds on the camber adjuster brackets have to be unpicked or ground away and the brackets moved inwards towards the centre of the car. The amount of movement depends upon the maximum camber adjustment actually available, but is usually around half an inch. The brackets are rewelded to the floorpan and the hole elongated.
Then I make and fit a strut tower support bar, which you have no doubt seen on rally or race cars. When fitted to Super Bugs, it does make a difference for the better and its well worth the effort involved.
The procedure is as follows: undo the bolts that hold the strut to the body and allow the strut leg to come down. Then place the cardboard or paper over the hole left inside the boot and trace the hole underneath. Do this to make a template, which fits on top of the strut tower body inside the boot. Trace the template onto six-inch by half-inch flat steel (approximately eighteen inches long) and cut out a pair of shapes ( oxy-acetylene makes it easy) Fit in to each side and refit each strut leg to the body.
I use two-inch by one-inch box-section to go between the two towers, cut to length and welded into place( onto the plates just made and fitted.) Consider the location of the brace, as it can be located forward position, the bar acting as a stop for articles in the boot. There will be many different ways to perform this task, but I hope this gives the general idea.
By Lance Plahn
There is no dough in anybodies mind regarding the success of the Volkswagen Beetle over the years. Just look at the records. So what was Volkswagen doing when they displayed Concept One at the 1994 Detroit Motor Show. Were they really simply showing a concept vehicle or testing the water? As we know this vehicle created real interest and stirred the imagination. Or was it an over active media that did the work.
We should not loose sight of the fact that Volkswagen still make the Beetle to-day. Let's face it we last saw the Beetle on sale in 1976 in Australia with the vehicle being unable to meet 1977 ADR's. Or was it that due to poor sales it was uneconomical to conform. After all USA with their stricter laws had the Beetle until 1979.
Being a Volkswagen enthusiast in the 70's, I remember buying the overseas magazines. In particular the hate mail and the arguments published over the new water cooled Volkswagen models. Even to-day for some reason or another you pick up any Volkswagen Magazine and it is predominantly Beetle.
I remember showing my Kombi at VW events, you always felt like a poor cousin, the only people to check out the buses were VW enthusiasts or Kombi owners. Note Beetle owners are not necessary VW enthusiasts, but Beetle enthusiasts. That is not being interested in the other aspects like for example the history, vintage VW's, modified, collectibles or other models. Their view is hard to understand taking that many Buses are of a standard equal to Beetles. I mean to say, why do people buy an early Beetle and spend a truck load of money doing improvements just to bring their vehicle up to a level of say a standard Golf.
The press reports the doors of Volkswagen are being beaten down by people wanting to buy Concept One or the Beetle as it is now called, with its water cooled front engine and front wheel drive. Strange considering that some details are a little fuzzy, like price, final engine options and will the seventeen inch wheels remain. After all Volkswagen have not produced too many lemons over the years. Or is it a case of good publicly and aggressive marketing. We all know the best Beetles have a torsion bar front end, because McPherson struts are not as good. Even though most passenger vehicles to-day have struts, including World Championship Rally cars.
People approach me and tell me things like "I used to own a Beetle, best vehicle I ever owned." strange, they don't have a Volkswagen now. Or "when did they stop making the Beetle". The bod in the street find it difficult to accept that Volkswagen is currently the number four manufacturer in the world. Considering their position in Australia. Since the eighties VW Australia has been telling us it is on the come back trail. The list of VW dealers is still shrinking, and country areas have had no VW dealers for over 15 years.
One would imagine that a few things will have to change if VW is going to make inroads in Australia. A good comprehensive network of dealers would be a start. Take my home town of Rockhampton, I can go out to a local dealer and buy a Hyundai or Daewoo. The closest VW or Seat dealer is an 8 hour drive away. With no VW dealership in the immediate area, imagine the problems incurred with warranty or servicing. Late model VW owners in this area tell me they love their VW, but would not own another unless they lived in a capital city because of parts and servicing problems.
When working on late model VW's in this area I find it hard to get information on VW. That is the dealers have invested a lot of money and owners should use only authorised dealers. Nissan Australia a little time ago changed from that same stance, recognising that Nissan owners had the right to take their vehicle to their preferred repairer. Now, if an unauthorised repairer is working on a Nissan, they can ring Nissan and the required relevant info will be given or sent to the repairer, the vehicle fixed properly and the owner would be happy. Hopefully purchasing another Nissan when the time to update arrives. It also means that dealers have to improve their customer service if they want better repeat business and customer loyalty. Admittedly dealerships and franchised repairers are usually better equipped when it comes to training and equipment.
I guess some enthusiasts will and can understand what is being said, but some with other views will not. Hence is the nature of free speech in Australia, some are not so lucky. That is to say let's not confuse opinion with negativity. I believe we should listen too and care about people, not to succumb to the pressure of the big money making machines.
By LANCE PLAHN, AUSTRALIA
I would like to share with you a true story which happened last month. For those who don't know me or remember me, I work as a mechanic at a Shell Auto Care garage in Rockhampton, Central Queensland.
On arriving at work early one Monday morning, I was greeted by an awaiting 1971 1600 cc VW Kombi which had several oil leak's. After checking and giving an estimate I was given the go ahead to carry out repairs.
It should be pointed out the owners, a couple in their twenties had just arrived in Australia from their home land, Switzerland and purchased the van for $2,400 to travel around OZ on their three month visit. They had only a limited English vocabulary which was better than my Swiss.
The motor was missing the left and right under barrel deflector plates, left and right under cylinder covers and both rear deflector plates. It had the usual oil leaks, crank seal, oil cooler and pushrod tubes. On removal of the engine I soon discovered some cracks in the crank case. One in the oil galley to the cooler, one behind the flywheel on No3 side and another coming from the top centre case nut, all of which were loose.
Well it was obvious that a few seals were not going to plug this leaker, so a new estimate on an exchange motor was given, for which their poor understanding of the Aussie language took a nose dive. After some negotiating the go ahead was given for an exchange motor. A motor was order and fitted with all the tin ware.
The owners dropped in just as I was finishing the job, explaining I was going to take the van for a test drive, so the husband decided to tag along. As we were driving along we talked about many things, then the subject of the van popped up with the owner saying " I have been taking it easy, 80 Kph, will it be okay to sit on 80 Kph while running it in " I replied " yeah! that will be okay " at the same time pointing to the 45 Mph mark on the speedo. The owner replied saying " no 80 Kph" pointing to the 80Mph mark on the speedo. Well you can imagine his surprise on explaining the imperial speedo against the metric system. Australia converted to the metric system in 1974.
On arrival back at the shop, he explained the lesson in Swiss to his wife who rushed over seeking confirmation to their illegal driving habit. My next task was to place masking tape on the necessary speedo places, 60, 80 and 100 Kph to help improve engine life and lower the risk of speeding tickets.
It makes you think and wonder.
By Lance Plahn
When hotting-up or overhauling VW motors, there has been a trend towards fitting an external oil cooler and filter. This method is explained in ''How to Hot-up VW Motors '' but, basically, it's straightforward. Block the delivery hole in the oil pump (usually done by tapping the hole and fitting a plug) and then use a special oil pump with outlet. Drill and tap the crankcase (follow the oil gallery up from the oil pump delivery hole to the welsh plug, which is removed and the opening drilled and tapped). The oil exits from the motor through the oil pump cover plate, via a filter or cooler ( usually both), then back into the motor. The auxiliary cooler and filter may be fitted in a variety of locations.
On Super Bugs, I fit the filter under the passenger-side rear mudguard, attaching the filter bracket to the bumper bar body attachment bolts. As I usually replace the standard five-row cooler with the Type 4 seven-row cooler, I then have a five -row cooler left over. This becomes the auxiliary cooler. You can silver solder fittings to the cooler or, alternately, use the take-off plate. The cooler is fitted above the gearbox, on the passenger side, using the original mounting holes to fix it to a bracket bolted to the floor.
A '74 beetle fresh-air fan is then mounted under the back seat, again on the passenger side. The heater tube which cuts across the corner ( under the back seat) is removed and the fan installed to blow back towards the motor. Under the car, remove the heater ducting and, using exhaust tubing, construct a new duct from the body to the cooler. Now fit a relay under the seat and an on/off switch under the dash. With the seven - row cooler in the fan housing, the extra cooler is not always required but, perhaps on a hot day or while enjoying some hard driving, the need may arise and extra cooling for the auxiliary cooler is now available.
By Lance Plahn
To improve cooling on 1500-1600 single-port engines (Beetles and Kombis), fit the fan housing and oil coolers set-up from the 1600 twin-port engine. To do this, you will need the fan housing (with dog housing), as the fan is 5mm wider than the single-port fan, along with the shut, duct, and front tinware over the fly wheel, oil cooler and stand. The 6mm stud that holds the oil cooler will need to be replaced with an 8mm stud, the crankcase being drilled and tapped to suit and the other two holes drilled out to take the 8mm studs. Ensure that you obtain the correct cooler seals to fit the cooler stand to the crankcase. With extra care, as there's not too much meat around the two holes to be drilled, it's possible to a similar job on 1200 and 1300 engines.
On 1300/1600 twin-port engines, replace the stock five-row cooler with the seven-cooler from the 1700/1800/2000 Kombi engines. To accommodate the larger cooler, the dog housing has to be cut and widened approximately 10mm. The duct over the cooler will need to be widened also. The two longest 6mm studs in the cooler stand will have to be replaced, using the ones from the 1700/1800/2000 engines (part number NO145361). I have also fitted the seven -row oil cooler to Type 3 engines. I prefer the above set-ups, as there are no oil lines to contend with when removing and replacing the motor.
Lance Plahn Australia
The task of selecting the correct oil cooler seal to suit both your crankcase and cooler can be difficult one as there are three different types of cooler seals in an engine overhaul gasket set (and another type available which is not supplied in the gasket set). There's also the problem of obtaining seals from your parts stockist, especially if you don't take a sample or don't know what you need. The problem occurs most frequently when fitting the black tin oil cooler to Type 1 and 2 motors, as there are three different types of seals available to do the job.
During August, 1969, Volkswagen increased the size of the oil cooler aperture in the crankcase and in the cooler itself from 8mm to 10mm, which resulted in two different crankcase - one with 8mm oil cooler holes, the other with 10mm - and two different styles of tin oil coolers.
To enable the then-new crankcase to be used with engines manufactured before July 1969 without having to install the new oil cooler at the same time (and conversely, the new oil cooler to be fitted on an older crankcase), a conversion oil cooler seal kit was released.
This kit is comprised of two cooler seals and a number of spacer washes (tinware washers). The seals are tapered on the inside from 8mm to 10mm and have an outside ring around the middle to separate the smaller outside diameter from the larger outside diameter end. These seals are usually made from a green material, although aftermarket seals are of a white material.
As for the differences between the two oil coolers, the early unit obviously has 8mm oil holes - with a small recess around the holes - and is flat across the bottom and mounting points. If you mount this cooler on a crankcase without the seals, there will be no gap between the cooler and the crankcase. This cooler was fitted to the 1200 and 1300 motors.
The later cooler has 10mm oil holes, with a larger surrounding recess. There is a raised section around the two mount bolts and the mounting bracket on the side is located further down, making the cooler sit higher. This means that when you mount the cooler on the crankcase without the seals, there is a gap between the cooler and the crankcase of approximately 3mm. This cooler was fitted to the 1500 and 1600 single-port motors.
So, which seal do you use to fit a tin oil cooler? If using an early crankcase (8mm holes) and an early oil cooler, use 2 x 111 117 151 seals. If using a later crankcase (10mm holes) and a late oil cooler, use 2 x 021 117 151 seals.
But, if matching a late crankcase with an early cooler, use an 111 198 029 conversion seal kit. The wider end goes into the crankcase, with the narrower tapered end fitting up to the oil cooler. Using the three washes supplied with the kit, place one under each of the mounting bolts between the crankcase and cooler.
When mounting an early crankcase with a late oil cooler, again use the 111 198 029 conversion seal kit. This time, the smaller tapered end fits into the crankcase and the larger end to the oil cooler. The washers supplied with the kit are not used in this instance.
1600 twin-port Beetle and Kombi motors are fitted with an aluminium oil cooler, which bolts to a stand-off housing - retained by three 8mm studs to the crankcase (this setup should use 4 x 021 117 151 cooler seals). To successfully mount a tin cooler to these crankcases, remove the 8mm stud and replace it with a stepped 6/8mm stud (the one used to repair stripped oil strainer plate studs). You then have to sleeve-down the other two 8mm holes and you can use and old 1600 push-rod for the job. Cut one end off and enlarge the internal diameter by drilling out to 15/64ths of an inch. Then cut off two 10mm lengths from the push-rod - these are the sleeves.
One of two things can happen when incorrect cooler seals are installed, regardless of the motor/cooler combination. Firstly, after a settling-in period, the seals can start leaking. This is due to the cooler being tightened onto the cooler seals. Seals settling or losing tension result in a cooler that becomes loose on the crankcase. The bottom of the cooler can also be dented. When the correct seals are used, the cooler is tightened against the crankcase and the cooler seals are lightly compressed between the cooler and crankcase.
The other problem is that the hole in the cooler seal reduces in diameter, causing a reduction in the oil flow to vital components - this could result in your motor failing prematurely. This situation is hard to detect.
Now that you have made the correct cooler seal choice, all that remains is to mount the cooler to the crankcase. But, before doing so, give the cooler a good visual checkover. Look for external damage, which could cause reduced oil flow in the cooler, or damage that could leak oil. Check the mounting tab on the side of the cooler to ensure that it is not fractured or even broken off, as this could result in only two bolts retaining the cooler to the crankcase. Make sure that the cooling air passage through the cooler is free from any abnormal restriction - examples of which include dirt, other foreign matter or the cooler tubes being expanded into the air stream, the latter example possibly restricting the air flow through the cooler and to the number three/four side of the motor. If new cooler seals are fitted and are correct, but there is a oil leak from the cooler area, it is possible to have a cracked crankcase, and that's another story.
By Lance Plahn
It seem that every VW owner has dreams about putting together the ultimate motor, one that has the ability to blow away V-8s, be streetable, achieve fantastic fuel economy, be inexpensive to build and, most importantly be trouble-free and last forever. Costs involved in a standard rebuild soon shatter most dreams, however, putting the notion of a high-performance or dream motor even further out of reach.
Let's face it - some VW models have, by now, been to the equivalent of the moon and back six times. This year, the year 1971 Super Bug and it's twin-port motor will be twenty seven years old. But don't make the mistake of thinking that just because your engine is ten to twenty years old, the price will reflect the cost of that era. It's also not likely that the engine has clocked a high mileage and may already have been overhauled several times, thus necessitating the replacement of major components this time around.
So let's consider what you should do when overhauling a VW motor. After dismantling the engine, give the components a light clean to enable a visual inspection and measurement procedure to be carried out. Now, let's consider each of the components in turn.
Bolt the case halves together, using the six 12mm studs and torque to specifications and, looking down the crank tunnel towards a light, verify whether the case halves are touching. If they're not, the cases are now junk - as the case halves have worn or are wrapped around the six main studs and will not produce proper bearing crush. If they are fine, have the halves acid-bathed, which removes sludge from the oil galleries.
Next, crack test to see if the halves are free from fatigue cracks- if cracking is apparent, throw the cases away, as welding in not really successful. Bolt the case halves together, using an inside micrometer, measure the diameter of the main bearing holes. If oval, not within factory tolerances or uneven where the main bearing sits, the crankcase will have to be align-bored and the thrust faces cleaned up. This will mean over-size bearings (over-size on the rear and thrust).
Over-size main bearings increase in graduations of 20-thou, with Repco bearings going over 100-thou. For best results, use good quality German bearings, but remember that they only go to 40-thou. It also pays to have the cam tunnel honed, which brings the tunnel back to specs and does not require over-size bearings.
Now check the barrel seats on the case halves. Sometimes the barrel pounds into the crankcase, with visible results. If this has occurred, the seats will have to be machined - this will of course, reduce the deck height ( distance from the top of the piston to the top of the barrel) and, in turn, increase compression ratio. Check deck heights on assembly and if necessary, fit the required spacer shims under the barrels to obtain the desired compression ratio. The head shims from a 1700-2000 Kombi motor are sometimes useful for this purpose. Ed
Check the dowel holes at the flywheel end of the crank, ensuring that the dowels fit firmly and that the holes are not elongated. Similarly, check the flywheel. If the dowels look worn, are marked or don't measure up to a new dowel, replace them. If the holes are enlarged or out of round, you can have them re-drilled at 45-degrees to the existing holes. But, for best results, find another crankshaft.
Measure the crank journals, ensuring that they're up to specs and that the journals are not oval. Grind the crank, if required, but first crack test - as cranks do break! If cracked, replace. When the crank is ground, a good crank grinder will make all the journals the same diameter and to the maximum allowable tolerance and radius the ends of the journals. This reduces the chance of cracking. Deburring the oil holes in the crank eliminates any sharp edged or burrs resulting from the grinding. The crank should also be acid-bathed to remove and sludge in the oil galleries.
Place the camshaft in crankcase-half 3 & 4 with new cam bearings and check end float ( you can use a feeler-gauge strip between the cam bearings and cam thrust face). If not within specs, you will have to replace the cam. Next, measure the three bearing journals and, if not within specs, replace. Check the condition of the lobes, looking for pits or deterioration on the case-hardening. If this condition exists, you can either buy a new cam or have your cam reground to standard or performance specs.
When replacing cams, ensure the required backlash between the cam gear and the crank gear is obtained. Incorrect backlash will cause the cam bearings to prematurely wear. The cam gears are numbered and range from minus 7 to plus 7, enabling the correct backlash to be obtained.
To check, place a straight-edge across the centre of the cam-follower head. As the head is curved, the straight-edge should touch in the centre. You may choose to place the cam-followers head to head, in order to get the same result. If the head is flat or concave, it will require attention and the followers may be radius-ground by a machine-shop. By now, most have been ground a number of times and are at the limit of the case-hardened surface. Grinding also alters the follower length, resulting in differing rocker geometry. The other alternative is to purchase new followers and, for best results, select good quality units-as the cheap ones can wear quickly, causing a lot of trouble.
Gudgeon pins should be a firm fit in the little-end-conrod bush and should not be too loose or able to rock. A new gudgeon pin should be used for this test but, if the old pin is to be re-used, measure it to be sure that it is the same diameter in the centre as at the ends. The bush should be tight in the conrod. If it's worn or loose, it should be re-bushed and reamed to suit the gudgeon pin being used.
Torque the big-end cap to the con-rod and measure the inside diameter-checking for an out of round condition and also ensuring that the diameter is within specs. If outside tolerances, the machine-shop can re-size it by machining a small amount off the conrod and cap, making the hole smaller and then rehoning to specs.
This does alter the rod length (centre of big-end to centre of little-end) and weight. A good shop will get the four rods to the same length, upon request, by off-setting the hole in the little-end. It is advisable to have the rods balanced, bringing the weight differences back to specs. Alternatively, new aftermarket rods may be purchased. If they don't come in matched sets of four, as in the case of genuine items, it would pay to have lengths and weights checked. Varying rod length result in varying deck heights and compression ratios from cylinder to cylinder. If the rod weights are not within tolerance, bearing life and engine vibration just above idle would be effected.
In most cases, it costs nearly as much to overhaul the pistons and cylinders as it does to purchase new units. If a piston has seized, a valve dropped or anything drastic along these lines has occurred, you will have to fit new pistons and cylinders. If you intend to use your old units, first check the piston and cylinder clearance, as either or both may be worn and thus make them unserviceable. Check for scours in the barrel, or seize marks, or both. Look for cracks in the piston skirts.
It is advisable to fit new rings, cleaning up the ring grooves and then fitting the rings to the pistons using a feeler-gauge strip to check ring groove clearance. If excessive, the ring groove will have to be machined and a spacer fitted. You should remove the carbon from the piston and, of course, clean everything.
If the heads have been compression leaking between the heads and barrels, the top of the barrel that seals against the head can be damaged and result in recurring leaks, if used again. If damage is minimal you may get away with rubbing the barrel on wet and dry emery paper placed on glass. If the damage is more severe, the barrel may require lathe-work. If this is the case, you will have to take the same amount off each barrel to keep all lengths equal. If they are different lengths, they won't seal, resulting in a head leak. Facing the top barrel will reduce deck heights and, if too much is removed, the piston may hit the head. Check the measurements and, if required, place shims under the barrels to obtain the desired deck height and, thus, a safe compression ratio. The cylinders will need honing to allow the rings to bed in. Cleaning the external barrel surfaces also aids proper cooling.
Head failure features prominently in many engine rebuilds-leaking or cracked heads that result in loss of performance, burnt valves, loose valve seats or guides and even dropped valves. For best results and engine life, fit new heads. These are available complete or bare (no valves or springs). Reconditioned heads are available at cheaper prices, but don't give the service life of new heads-however, the reconditioners may dispute this.
Now, let's look at what's involved in overhauling heads. After dismantling, beadblast the heads and check for cracks. These have to be ground out and welded. Next, check valve guides for wear and replace if necessary. Measure the valve stems to monitor wear, replacing where necessary, it's advisable to replace exhaust valves as a precautionary measure. Ensure the valve seats aren't loose.
If the head has to be welded, it may be necessary to replace the valve guides and seats, as they have to be removed prior to the welding process. The valves will have to be syncro-seated (the valve and valve seat are cut to provide 100% sealing on contact) and the valve springs checked for tension and free length, as a weak valve spring can cause a valve to burn.
Check threads and studs which may need repairing (for example, damaged or stripped exhaust studs and stripped threads) a stripped thread being easily repaired with a heli-coil. The heads will have to be fly cut, the surface the barrel seats against being machined to ensure a seal. Welding or fly cutting the heads alters the combustion chamber volumes and it is advisable to check the capacity of all four chambers for variations. Variations mean different compression ratios from cylinder to cylinder and the engine may not run smoothly, which could lead to premature engine failure.
If the capacities do vary, they can be balanced by taking small amounts from the chambers with the lower volumes. You will need to know the head volume to check the compression ratio. It's more than likely that the compression ratio will be higher than standard after an overhaul and high compression ratios coupled with the reduction of lead in the fuel will only lead to premature head and piston failure.
Often likened to a human heart, the pump keeps the oil circulating. If it stops or slows down, expect trouble and, as it's realistically priced, it's advisable to replace it. The pump body is alloy and does wear and scour. Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the gears and the pump body and between the gears themselves. The gears rub against the pump cover, scouring it and resulting in reduced oil pressure. Replace the cover if it's scoured. Another component often overlooked during motor overhauls is the oil relief valve (and spring), a cheap component to replace. The relief valve or piston does wear and the springs do lose their tension.
MISCELLANEOUS
Rocker shafts also need a check. Disassemble, clean and reassemble. Check the wave washer on the rocker shafts, as they do wear and then break - allowing the rocker to float causing trouble. The tappet screws do wear or pit, so replace where necessary. The rocker shaft can be worn due to the rocking motion of the rocker itself. Replace if worn.
Give the push rods the once over also, checking for pits or damaged ends bent or damaged shafts - caused, for example, by the push-rod tube rubbing up against the push-rod. Hold the push-rod up to the light and look through it. Notice the sludge and dirt. Carby Clean is helpful in cleaning the insides of the push-rods or, indeed, any other oil circuitry components. Push-rod tubes tend to develop small rust holes and then leak oil, or suffer from rock damage due to their position. Its' advisable to replace them and eliminate any troubles, as they're cheap enough. If reusing the old ones, inspect thoroughly for rust holes or cracks in the concertina at the ends, clean the tubes (a bottle brush is helpful) and beat out any damage.
During the reassembly of the motor, it's a good idea to use nylock lock nuts on the crankcase halves, especially the six main 12x1.5mm studs. You should always use new conrod nuts. Check the condition of the head washers (they should be flat), as they tend to dish and scour the surface as the nuts are tightened. Replace as necessary.
Well, as you can see, there's a lot to do and check during a motor overhaul and money, or the lack thereof, will govern how much you do and how long your engine lasts. Just whacking in a set of rings and bearings is only a short term fix, enabling you to sell the car and, at least, get the new owner home. It's worthwhile remembering that the life of the motor will not only depend upon the components overhauled and the use of quality parts. All the tin-ware will need to be fitted properly and the engine serviced at the proper intervals. Then you will enjoy the benefits of your engine overhaul for many years to come.